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|Zaslal: út listopad 13, 2012 11:37 am Předmět: Here Some Celebrity News For You
|Nicolas Ghesquière, one of the stars of the brand reinvention era, is exiting the house he helped rebuild.
In a development Monday that took many in the fashion industry by surprise, Balenciaga and the French designer said they had reached a “joint decision to end their working relationship,” effective Nov. 30.
The news came only a month after Ghesquière staged one of the most widely praised shows of the spring fashion season — and amid rumblings that the relationship between the designer and management had, after 15 years, soured and reached an impasse. For several years, Ghesquière was said to resent what he felt was a lack of support and funding for the brand — only exacerbated by increasing friction with chief executive officer Isabelle Guichot. In addition, resources committed to Hedi Slimane and the reinvention of Saint Laurent, while not a primary cause of Ghesquière’s departure, added to the tension. Nike Free
PPR is believed to have been pressing for a more commercial direction at the house, which it had long seen as having the potential one day to rival Gucci and Bottega Veneta in sales volume.
“With an incomparable creative talent, Nicolas has brought to Balenciaga an artistic contribution essential to the unique influence of the house,” Fran?ois-Henri Pinault, chairman and ceo of PPR, parent of Balenciaga, said in a brief press statement. “Cristóbal Balenciaga was a master, a genius whose avant-garde vision dictated fashion’s greatest trends and inspired generations of designers. Nike Free Run 3
Pinault, due to speak at today’s Pambianco conference in Milan, was not available for further comment Monday. He and other PPR officials had brushed off speculation that the designer and Balenciaga might be heading for a divorce when questioned about it during Paris Fashion Week.
Ghesquière is in Japan for a friend’s wedding and could not be reached for comment.
Guichot told WWD a successor would be named “as soon as we’re ready.”
“We have a short list,” she added, declining to identify potential candidates or give a deadline for making an announcement.
“My biggest interest is to focus the organization, accompany the team and develop the brand potential, so it’s in my interest to do it as soon as possible,” she said.
Guichot characterized the forthcoming change of creative leadership as “part of the life of a fashion house” and that Balenciaga and Ghesquière agreed, after discussions of long duration, to open “new chapters” in their respective development. Cheap Nike Free Run
“We have huge ambitions and we have huge reserves of growth,” the executive said. “Year-to-date, we’re still at double-digit growth.”
Guichot noted that Balenciaga is a brand with strong codes recognized by consumers, and she stressed it still has room to grow via geographic, retail and product expansion.
Asked if Ghesquière’s exit could hurt Balenciaga’s momentum, she said the “brand is strong enough, developed enough and structured enough to express itself without fear,” she said. “Now the company is so mature in its organization, in its processes, the business is really moving forward.”
She also trumpeted the health of its ready-to-wear business, girded by six capsule collections — leather, knits, pants, T-shirts, silk and black dresses — along with its vintage reeditions line, known as Edition.
She declined to speculate on Ghesquière’s next move. “It was an incredible tenure for Balenciaga, in its creativity, its content, its length,” she said. “Nicolas has many talents, he needs to express his talent and I’m sure he will do so.”Nike Free Run
Gucci Group, the precursor to PPR’s luxury division, acquired the Balenciaga business in 2001 from Groupe Jacques Bogart, a fragrance and fashion firm, with Gucci owning a 91 percent stake and Ghesquière holding the balance.
Guichot declined to say if Ghesquière still held shares in the company, and if so, if Balenciaga or PPR might acquire them. “All I can say is Balenciaga is already 100 percent fully integrated in PPR’s accounts.”
She also declined to comment on his current employment contract, which sources said expires sometime in 2013.
Among Guichot’s other pressing concerns is finding a temporary store for Balenciaga in Manhattan as its flagship in the Chelsea art district was “destroyed” by the storm surge engendered by Hurricane Sandy, and its forthcoming unit in SoHo isn’t slated to open until spring.
The exit of one of the industry’s most lauded and daring talents is sure to fuel discussion over the tug-of-war between business imperatives and creative expression. Nike Free Run 2
The change also caps off a turbulent year at the highest levels of international fashion, with Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent among French brands bringing in new creative directors.
Ghesquière has been creative director of Balenciaga since 1997, transforming it into one of the most influential French brands and most coveted tickets during Paris Fashion Week.
His rapid-fire shows delivered a fashion message as direct as a bullet, spectacular in their workmanship and imagination. He had a penchant for futurism and the Eighties, while also exploring key silhouettes and themes from Balenciaga, a Spaniard who founded his couture house in 1919 and established himself in Paris in 1936.
Despite international fame, Balenciaga closed his couture business in 1968, leaving licensed fragrances as the main business. He died in 1972. cheap nike free
Ghesquière’s next career move could not be learned, but the sudden availability of such a high-profile talent is sure to attract the attention of rival luxury groups.
Dior heavily courted Ghesquière last year as it sought to replace its disgraced couturier John Galliano, ousted in the wake of racist and anti-Semitic outbursts. Dior ultimately opted for Raf Simons, another media darling who had been shown the door at Jil Sander a few months earlier despite an acclaimed seven-year stint at that Milan-based brand.